by Karin Leperi Pezo / text and photos

Chiapas is a land brimming with Latin culture, traditional Mayan heritage and tremendously diverse natural beauty; yet many Americans have never even heard of it.  And within this geographically-close yet culturally-distant Mexican state, lies a place so steeped with colonial charm and architectural beauty, that the sheer mention of it evokes a sense of wonderment and magic by those who dare speak its name.  It only adds to the puzzlement how adventurous European travelers have discovered this hidden jewel while American tourists tend to be scarce.  This rare jewel is San Cristobal de las Casas.

The Magic of San Cristobal

San Cristobal is named after a 16th. century Spanish priest who ardently defended the rights of the indigenous community and went on to become the first bishop of Chiapas. Today, this vibrant town continues to weave its spell on those who choose to go off the beaten path and experience the melting pot of everything that “was” and “is” in this magical place caught between the annals of time.

 Even México’s Secretariat of Tourism (SECTUR) is savvy to the charms of San Cristobal for in conjunction with other federal and state agencies, they named it a “Pueblo Mágico” in 2003. The “Magical Villages Program” is an initiative designed to promote a series of towns around the country that offers visitors a “magical” experience by reason of their natural beauty, cultural riches, or historical relevance.

 Converging Cultures

Located at over 7,000 feet in the central highlands of Chiapas, San Cristobal de las Casas is considered by many to be the heart of the indigenous Mayan culture; the economic hub where  traditional ethnic groups converge to engage in timeless barter and trade.  It is also a crossroads where traditional practices cross paths with modern conveniences, sometimes resulting in bizarre outcomes such as the imbibing of Coca-Cola by indigenous peoples so as to belch evil spirits from the body.  

 Nevertheless, for all its contradictions, tolerance prevails. In San Cristobal, the contrasts between cultural heritage and modern progress are pliable, somehow softened through a quirky accommodation that pervades the melting pot populace of differing religious beliefs, political views, languages and dialects.

Curiosity and Cobblestone Streets 

I find myself in this charming colonial city because I am curious about the culture and the proud and tenacious spirit of the indigenous Mayan people.  Preferring to not travel solo, I join a photo cultural tour lead by Jim Cline of Jim Cline Photography (www.JimCline.com).  An award-winning photographer, Cline specializes in documenting disappearing cultures of developing nations. It is because of his extensive travels throughout Latin America, along with his compassionate and caring personality, that he has developed a rapport with the locals, thus enabling our small group to shoot priceless photographs that would have been impossible to get left to our own endeavors.

 I take a deep breath of crisp pine-scented mountain air as we traipse the narrow sidewalks and cobble-stoned streets of San Cristobal.  We are headed toward our first photo shoot at the Cathedral – an 18th. century baroque masterpiece, recently restored to its original color and glory. This is the hub of all cultural activities and takes on a somewhat festive atmosphere with strolling vendors selling pink cotton candy to bystanders. 

 Along the way I notice how the myriad white stucco walls and red-tiled roofs impart an idyllic character – a gossamer-like quality to this magical place.  For a moment things seem surreal – as if I am walking a page in a long-lost history book of a forgotten time and place.  However, I seem a step out of time with my surroundings, as if time were reversed.  It is a curious case – this San Cristobal.

 Over the next couple of days, I realize that one thing is for certain:  San Cristobal has much to offer both traveler and photographer.  Things to do include: 

 ●sampling the diverse cuisine; 

●checking out the constant carnival of activity at the Cathedral and the Centro; 

●shopping for great handicrafts on the grounds of Santa Domingo church; 

●visiting indigenous villages in the surrounding mountainside; 

●ogling the many natural wonders from underground caves to breathtaking waterfalls.   
Cuisine

Since San Cristobal is home to many diverse cultures, it makes sense that the culinary scene offers an exquisite array of choices as well as unique blending of foods and recipes – Indian and Spanish in particular. My favorites have a squash blossom theme: a velvety squash blossom soup and tacos with squash blossom and “queso fresco” – a non-aged, creamy and mild white cheese that varies in taste by locale.

 The local drink – a hard liquor made from cane and sometimes served in a pineapple – seems omnipresent.  Called posh, it comes in a variety of flavors and is used traditionally for healing and partying. However, some of the local talk as well as prominent billboards suggest that many of the men overly indulge, leading to episodic violence directed toward the women folk.

 Cultural Handicrafts at the Cathedral and Santa Domingo

San Cristobal is a treasure trove for those seeking unique handicrafts and products reflective of the local people and economy.  From beautifully embroidered Mayan tapestries, textiles, and blouses to fine filigree jade and amber jewelry, the choices are many.  Local pottery makers and iron forgers offer one-of-a-kind items for collectors as well as inexpensive trinkets.  Be assured that there are price points for all pocketbooks.  Expect to pay in pesos; even the stores prefer cash to credit.  

Starting at the Cathedral or town square, I encounter lovely Mayan girls and women peddling shawls, blankets, and colorfully braided wrist ties – particularly popular with teens.  Fellow photographer and friend, Mihail Milea, quickly becomes a favorite with the girls as he empties his pockets while purchasing gifts for family and friends.  And because the prices are so ridiculously reasonable, he doesn’t even bargain, though they do let him take their photo. I later asked what was most memorable about San Cristobal, to which he said, “When I think about San Cristobal I see the little Indian girls dressed like the rainbow selling handicrafts in front of the church.” (Later in the trip he was compelled to buy additional luggage for all the blankets, shawls, and tablecloths he purchased.)

 Next, I head to Santa Domingo several blocks away, for an afternoon shoot, but not before shopping the stores for local jade and amber.  I hear that the jade mines are about an hour north of the city and produce some fine pieces for jewelry. San Cristobal is also noted for its amber, which is actually fossilized resin originating from pine trees.  Transparent lumps range in color from yellow to red, and were once used by the ancient Mayans in trade. I find a nice filigree amber ring at Joy Piedra Escondida, a large store specializing in amber and jade jewelry. Since I am running low on coins, the convenience of charging my purchase is greatly appreciated. 

 I arrive at the former convent of Santa Domingo, right next to the Santa Domingo Church.  This is the place to buy high quality embroideries and traditional textiles from groups of Tzotzil and Tzeltal craftspeople who operate the cooperative store.  Expect the ultimate quality as prices are higher than what you can buy from street stalls and vendors.  Open from Monday to Saturday from 9am to 2pm and 4 to 6pm; they do accept credit cards.

For an exquisite selection of pottery, visit the pottery-making village of Amatenango del Valle, just an hour away.  Here you find families that still make pottery using pre-Hispanic techniques, by building a wood fire around the pottery.

A Tale of Two Mayan Towns: San Juan Chamula and San Lorenzo Zinacantan

To truly appreciate the duality of culture and the juxtaposition of indigenous animistic beliefs with Catholicism, one must visit the outlying towns of San Juan Chamula and San Lorenzo Zinacantan.  Here are two different takes – two different lifestyles on how indigenous people reconcile their tradition with the modern world.

San Juan Chamula is considered the most authentic traditional Mayan town in Chiapas and enjoys a unique autonomous status within México. Chamulas have their own police force as no outside police or military are allowed in the village. Here the people cling to traditional ways and eschew contemporary Catholicism: religion is a quirky blend of pre-conquest Maya customs, Spanish Catholic traditions, and pragmatic innovations.  The church floor is covered with green pine boughs and fallen pine needles, with interspersed candles temporarily waxed to the floor while Chamula families kneel and chant rituals in their native tongue.  Smoke from burning copal resin hangs thick in the air while they drink ceremonial cups of Posh and expel evil spirits from the body by drinking and burping Coca-Cola.  Raw eggs are broken and an occasional chicken is sacrificed to ward off the evil eye.  Cameras are forbidden inside the church as is the taking of photos.  

San Lorenzo Zinacantan, once the capital of the Tzotzil Maya world, means “land of bats.” The Zinacantan women are easily recognized with their electric indigo blue and purple woven blouses.  A more open society, they embrace Catholicism and are more likely to send female children to school.  Besides selling textiles and showcasing their weaving skills, the town is engaged in a flourishing flower industry.  Be sure to try some of the hot homemade tortillas at the many homes that sell textiles and embroidery.  Though there is no charge for the food, a tip is appreciated.

Natural Wonders 

San Cristobal is surrounded by accessible natural beauty from an abundance of water and wilderness to the eerie wonders of underground caves. El Chiflon (near Comitan) is a multi-stage waterfall known to look like angel wings from above. Misol Ha waterfall (near Palenque) is named after the river of the same name.  The fall plunges nearly 120 feet into a refreshing pool that welcomes bathers.  The Grutas de San Cristobal feature a lit concrete walkway the first part of the cave.  Set amidst pine woods, the caves are as refreshing as they are beautiful.  It is best to wear good walking shoes, bring mosquito repellant and lots of drinking water for any outdoor activity. And don’t forget the camera as the scenery is lush and stunning.

 Journeys may begin in San Cristobal, but they never really end there: it has something to do with the spirit of the place.  There is an infinite, visceral quality that makes this a unique travel experience in time, one that will remain with you long after your journey is done.  San Cristobal will challenge your senses while it grabs your heart. There is definitely something curious about San Cristobal.