by Lisa Coleman / text and photos

México’s Yucatán Peninsula is known as the “Land of the Maya” and it stands as a tribute to one of the most prolific and fascinating civilizations the world has ever known. The ruins of complex ancient cities are scattered throughout dense jungles and lush rolling hillsides. But it’s here, in the state that shares its name with the region, the magic and enchantment of the Mayan world are at their most brilliant. If you have a week (or more), a trip to Yucatán to explore these treasures will be an adventure you’ll never forget.

First, Cancún is not in the state of Yucatán and Yucatán is not in Cancún. All too often everything on the Yucatán Peninsula gets lumped together and travelers think (possibly) it’s all one “big place.” Don’t be embarrassed if you secretly thought it, too… you’re not alone! Take a look at the map below for some orientation as to what is what and where is where. 

A quick overview: The Yucatán Peninsula is located in southeastern México and separates the Caribbean Sea from the Gulf of México and is comprised of the Mexican states of Yucatán, Campeche, and Quintana Roo (as well as the northern parts of  Belize and Guatemala). This is the heart of the “Mundo Maya,” and one of the most culturally rich regions in the world. According to El Instituto Nacional de Antropología e Historia, there are 29,000 registered archaeological sites in all of Mexico, of which 180 are open to the public. A significant number of these sites can be found throughout the state of Yucatán and the Yucatán Peninsula.  Mérida, Yucatán’s capital city, is surrounded by one of the richest collections of ancient archaeological sites found anywhere in the world, thus making it an excellent jumping off place for exploration.  

Unique and spectacular, the state’s geographical features alone are worth the trip. The entire Yucatán Peninsula has a porous limestone surface, so there are no above ground water sources, meaning no lakes or rivers. However, a network of subterranean rivers make a web beneath the peninsula, and fresh water is found in hundreds cenotes (say-no-tays), or sinkholes. These were the wells of the ancient Maya and exploring them is one of the most rewarding adventures you can imagine.  

Mérida is a true colonial gem… It was once the henequén (a plant used to make rope) capital of the world, spawning an enormous number of grand working haciendas. The exportation of this natural fiber (or “green gold,” as it was called) brought tremendous wealth to Mérida throughout the late 1800s and what remains are fascinating remnants of an important time in México’s history.  Mérida was essentially “cut off” from mainland México (rail and road links to México City were not completed until the 1950’s), so it was easier for the city’s wealthy land owners to travel by boat to the U.S., Cuba, and even Europe rather than trying to go to other parts of Mexico. The result: European in design, yet undeniably Mayan. 

Horse drawn carriages carry visitors down tree-lined boulevards past a fascinating mixture of Spanish and French colonial architecture. Elaborate turn-of-the-century mansions still stand as a reminder of the wealth that began in the 16^th century with the area’s henequén boom. The main avenue, Paseo de Montejo, has been likened to the Champs-Élysées and is one of the most impressive streets in all of Mexico. 

The central plaza downtown is framed by huge laurel trees, colorful shops, and lies adjacent to the cathedral (a layout that’s customary throughout México). On Sunday, streets are closed to automobile traffic and the entire area comes to life. Music rings through the plaza as the locals sell traditional handicrafts, intricately embroidered huipils (the regional dress for women), and an enormous selection of handmade hammocks and hats. Try to catch a performance at the Teatro Peón Contreras, a splendid neoclassic style theater that was built in 1908. 

Outside the city, the history of the Maya is at its most prolific. The Mayas were one of the greatest civilizations the world has ever known, and their finest showcase can be found here. Chichén Itzá (80 miles east of Mérida) is undoubtedly one of the most fascinating sites in all of México. It is a combination of two cities: one under Mayan rule from the sixth to the tenth century; the other a Toltec-Mayan city that emerged around the year 1000 AD. Under the Toltec rule, the buildings were developed and the city came to life.

At the center of Chichén Itzá is the Castillo. This structure demonstrates a mixture of Toltec and Mayan influences and is known for its cosmological symbolism. As seen in many photographs, its four sides contain 365 steps (one for each day of the solar year), 52 panels (for each year in the Mayan century), and 18 terraces (for the eighteen months in the religious year). 

The Mayans at Chichén Itzá must have been intrigued by sports as well, as the ancient ball court (framed by carvings) is the largest ever discovered. Also among the ruins are a sacred well, an observatory, the Temple of Warriors, and a nunnery, along with numerous other structures. During the fall and spring equinoxes in March and September, the sun’s shadow forms an enormous serpent’s body across the giant staircase of the pyramid. It makes for an amazing sight.

Uxmal (oosh-mahl) is located 58 miles south of Mérida, along what is called La Ruta Puuc.  “Puuc” means “hills” in Maya, so a fair translation would be “the hilly route.” The archeological sites found along this route include Uxmal, Kabáh, Labná, and Sayil. “Puuc” also defines the architectural style of these particular sites whose structures are characterized by elaborate and ornate façades quarried from stone in the region. 

Architecturally speaking, Uxmal is said to be one of the most significant sites in the ancient world. Founded around 700 A.D., Uxmal (meaning “three times built”) was created in various stages and many of the buildings are stacked in layers of stone. The centerpiece is the extraordinary 115-foot tall “Pyramid of the Magician” which is actually five temples layered on top of one another. This is absolutely one of the most breathtaking sites in all of Mexico.

Izamal (eehs-ah-MAHL) is a “must” for a side trip from the city. Located east of Mérida and known as “the yellow city,” this charming town is highlighted by its bright mustard-yellow 16^th century Franciscan convent (San Antonio de Padua). The convent itself (completed in 1562) is built atop the base of a destroyed Mayan temple and boasts the largest enclosed atrium in Mexico. Pope John Paul visited in 1993 and has been commemorated by a statue of the Pope in the convent courtyard. Izamal is also home to its own intriguing Mayan ruins. The pyramid of Kinich Kakmo is located right in town and though it is scarcely restored, it is well worth the steep climb to the top just to take in the view. 

And when it comes to an adventure in nature, there are few places in México that compare to Celestún. Located 60 miles south west of Mérida, Celestún (meaning “painted stone”) is a colorful coastal town known for its sandy beaches, excellent seafood… and its famous “pink” residents. The laid back town is surrounded by the breathtaking 147,000-acre Parque Natural del Flamenco Mexicano, better known as the Celestún Biosphere Preserve. This massive wetland reserve is an extraordinary and unique ecosystem that combines fresh water from the estuary (ría) and salt water from Gulf of México. More than 300 species of birds call this region home, but most notable is the huge population of brilliantly pink flamingos. Though the flamingos can be seen year round, the population swells to its largest numbers in the winter months (primarily December)  with as many as 20,000 of the feathered phenomenon posing for perfect pictures. The Nature Conservancy has said that “nearly 90 percent of all the world’s pink flamingos migrate to two breeding and nesting grounds: Celestún and Río Lagartos (located 2 ½ hours from Mérida). 

Anytime is a perfect time to experience the unique energy of Yucatán and the Mundo Maya. The influence of the indigenous ancestors is unmistakable. It would take far more pages than I have here to even begin to convey the magnitude of what this part of México is all about. It’s another world here…. a magical world you shouldn’t miss.