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Interview Series Chef Extraordinaire - Marcelo Hisaki

Born in Mexico City to Japanese parents, Chef Marcelo Hisaki grew up surrounded by a diversity of flavor, texture, color, and tradition that combined both Japanese and Mexican culinary heritage. At an early age, his talent and discipline led him to earn a scholarship from Fondation Turquois Monaco to study French cuisine at the Lycée Hotelier de Monte Carlo and train in Michelin-starred restaurants Yoshi and Joël Robuchon, in Monte Carlo, Monaco. In 2013, Chef Marcelo and his wife Chef Reyna Venegas opened Restaurante Amores in Tecate, Baja California. Their culinary concept is influenced by Mexican, Japanese and French cultures, using local produce with respect, love, and creativity. He recently represented México in the Bocuse d’Or Finale 2023, a prestigious culinary contest in Lyon, France, receiving the social commitment award as a recognition to his team’s involvement in support of migrants’ food insecurity in Baja California.

by Mayté Rodríguez Cedillo and Fernando Favela  ·  Chef Extraordinaire ·  BajaTraveler.com

Baja-Traveler-And-Beyond

Your cuisine feels deeply personal. If you had to distill your culinary identity into one essential idea, what would it be—and how has it evolved over time?

 

Rodrigo Esponda

Respect. For the ingredient, for the person who grew or raised it, for the guest who sits at our table, and for the landscape that made it all possible. Everything else—technique, creativity, plating—flows from that foundation.

When I was younger, I was seduced by complexity and innovation for their own sake. I thought mastery meant adding layers.

But over years of working in Baja, I learned the opposite: mastery is removing what doesn’t belong. A perfectly ripe heirloom tomato needs almost nothing. A wild fish from our coast, a handful of salt, a whisper of heat. The evolution has been learning to listen to what’s already there rather than imposing my will upon it.

Baja-Traveler-And-Beyond

Baja California offers a striking sense of place. How do you translate the landscape—sea, desert, and vineyard—into a coherent culinary language?

Rodrigo Esponda

The landscape isn’t metaphor in my kitchen—it’s grammar. The Pacific shapes flavor profiles: brine, iodine, the clean minerality of kelp and sea urchin. The desert contributes restraint and intensity—dried chilies with generations of flavor, agave, herbs that thrive in harsh conditions. The vineyards bring balance and aging wisdom.

I think of these as three registers: the coastal freshness, the interior depth, the aged complexity. A single dish might contain all three—a preparation of local fish with desert chile and a sauce that’s been reduced and refined like a wine in bottle.

It’s not about listing what grows here; it’s about understanding the essential character of each region and letting that character inform how flavors speak to one another.

Baja-Traveler-And-Beyond

Every great chef develops an almost obsessive relationship with certain ingredients. Which ones define your kitchen, and why are they indispensable?

 

Rodrigo Esponda

Our heirloom chilies—especially the Chilhuacle Negro and Guajillo varieties we source from small producers in the interior. They carry history and terroir that commercial chilies erase. Sea urchin, when it’s caught responsibly. The bitterness and umami of wild greens—arugula from the hills, purslane, quelites. And our local wines, obviously, but specifically the unfiltered, minimal-intervention wines that partners are making in Valle de Guadalupe.

These aren’t ingredients I use because they’re “local”—that’s marketing. I use them because they have character. They argue with you a little. They demand respect and technique. You can’t hide behind seasoning or sauce when you’re working with a wild ingredient that has something to say.

Baja-Traveler-And-Beyond
In your creative process, where do you find the balance between technical precision and intuitive expression?

 

Rodrigo Esponda

Technique is the tool that sets intuition free. Without it, intuition is just guessing. You need absolute precision in temperature, timing, knife work—so that when the intuitive moment arrives, you have the skill to execute what your instinct is telling you.

For me, the creative process starts with constraint: a specific ingredient, a season, a memory. I work technically through versions—testing, tasting, adjusting—until I reach a point where the dish stops asking for anything else.

That’s when intuition takes over; you feel when it’s right. The balance isn’t about choosing between them; they’re inseparable. Precision is the discipline that earns you the permission to be intuitive.

Baja-Traveler-And-Beyond
In a region so closely tied to wine, how do you craft a menu that not only complements but elevates what’s in the glass?
Rodrigo Esponda

We design the menu and wine list as partners, not as separate conversations. Rather than choosing wines to match finished dishes, we often work backwards: a wine we’re excited about shapes what we want to cook that season. An unfiltered white made with skin contact teaches us about texture and tannin in our preparations.

A Nebbiolo from one of our partners—with its acidity and structure—shows us that we can be bolder with bitter elements, with fish preparations, with how we use heat. We also push back against the romance of “pairing.”

Not every dish needs wine. Some dishes are better served with silence, or with a digestif after. But when wine is present, it should be a conversation, not an echo of what came before.

Baja-Traveler-And-Beyond

From your perspective, how is Valle de Guadalupe positioned today within the international food and wine landscape?

Rodrigo Esponda

Valle de Guadalupe has moved past the moment of being “discovered” and is entering a period of authentic maturity. Five or six years ago, the narrative was novelty: “Baja is the new frontier.” Now we’re seeing what genuinely sticks—the winemakers and chefs who were serious about their craft, not chasing trends.

Internationally, we’re still underselling ourselves. Napa, Sonoma, Tuscany, Rioja—these regions have spent decades building infrastructure and reputation. We have natural advantages they don’t: proximity to the Pacific, incredible diversity in a small geography, a food culture that’s wild and living, not heritage-bound.

But we need more writers, more serious acknowledgment, more chefs putting their best work here. The world’s eyes are starting to turn. The question is whether we’ll be ready with substance or just spectacle.

Baja-Traveler-And-Beyond
The idea of luxury in dining has evolved. For you, what defines a truly exceptional gastronomic experience today?
Rodrigo Esponda

Luxury today is attention and generosity—not price or rarity. A luxury experience is when you feel seen by the people serving you. When the meal is built specifically for you, your preferences are honored, your discoveries feel personal. It’s when a server knows enough to notice you’ve shifted your posture and anticipates what you’ll need next. It’s when food arrives at the exact moment your palate is ready for it. And it’s honesty: transparency about where things come from, why we made choices, when we failed and what we learned.

The most luxurious meals I’ve experienced have often been modest in appearance but profound in intentionality. A perfect fish, simply prepared, in the hands of someone who genuinely cares that it moves you. That’s luxury.

Baja-Traveler-And-Beyond

Sustainability is often discussed, but rarely understood in depth. What meaningful practices—often unseen by the guest—truly shape your approach?

Rodrigo Esponda

We build direct relationships with producers instead of working through distributors. This means knowing when a fisherman is struggling, when a farmer needs a commitment order to invest in their season. It means accepting that we’re sometimes paying more because we’re buying from small, sustainable operations—and that’s not a cost to hide, it’s integrity we’re proud of.

We waste almost nothing: vegetable scraps become stocks and sauces, fish bones become consommés, even shells teach us about umami and structure. We plan menus around what’s abundant, not what we want to serve. When mackerel is running, mackerel is what the kitchen focuses on. Guests who understand this appreciate the discipline; it’s not limiting, it’s liberating.

And we try to be honest when we can’t do better. If a luxury ingredient can’t be sourced sustainably, we don’t serve it—not because it’s trendy, but because we can’t look a fisherman in the eye otherwise.

Baja-Traveler-And-Beyond

Which global influences have shaped your vision, and how do you reinterpret them while preserving a strong sense of place?

Rodrigo Esponda

I’ve been shaped by Mediterranean cooking—the simplicity and respect for ingredient that defines the best of Spanish, Italian, and French coastal cuisines. Japanese precision and the poetry of negative space in plating. Nordic thinking about seasons and preservation. But reinterpreting these isn’t about fusion or borrowing techniques. It’s about understanding the principles underneath.

Why does Mediterranean cooking work? Because it emerges from a specific relationship to land and sea. When I apply those principles in Baja, they don’t look like Mediterranean cooking; they look like Baja. The influence is invisible. What guests see is something that feels entirely of this place—because it emerges from the same deep logic, adapted to different ingredients and a different light.

Baja-Traveler-And-Beyond

Beyond trends, what kind of legacy do you hope to build—and how do you envision the future of Baja’s cuisine on the global stage?

Rodrigo Esponda

I want to help establish Baja not as a food trend, but as a culinary region with depth and continuity. Places like Lyon or San Sebastián took decades to build that position. We have the raw materials and the talent. What we need is commitment—chefs and producers staying, deepening their work, mentoring the next generation.

I want young cooks from Tijuana, from Ensenada, to see possibility here, to understand that extraordinary cuisine doesn’t require moving to Mexico City or the United States.

For the global stage: I hope Baja becomes known for something that can’t be done anywhere else. Not because we’re trying to be unique, but because this place—its geography, its history, its light, its people—shapes food in irreplaceable ways. That’s when you stop being a destination and start being a necessary part of how the world eats.

 

BajaTraveler® Signature Closing

 

1. A wine that never fails to move you     (red, white, or sparkling)

White

2. One Baja ingredient you can’t live without

Chilhuacle Negro chile

3. A restaurant anywhere in the world that recently inspired you

                     Nourish’d

4. Sea or land—where do you find more inspiration?

Sea 

5. A perfect pairing—simple, yet unforgettable

Wild sea urchin with white miso

6. A guilty pleasure

Fresh corn tortillas with butter and sea salt

7. The first dish or memory that defined your palate

                    My grandmother’s mole negro

8. If you weren’t a chef, what would you be…

Farmer

9. A culinary destination you consider essential today

           Spain

10. In one word: what is Baja to you?

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